Domaine Henri Delagrange Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc 2022 PURYEAR and give it room to

and give it room to stretch out

a granite-rooted expression from Rías Baixas

A 25-year Italian brandy from an estate in Colombaro di Formigine

The bitter Camatti is a great Genoese specialty

Domaine Henri Delagrange Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc 2022 PURYEAR and give it room toThe Hautes Cotes de Beaune is the back country: higher, cooler ground just behind the famous slope, where Chardonnay ripens later and keeps its nerve. This one comes from a family domaine in the Cote de Beaune farming sustainably, and it does what the appellation does best, which is deliver honest white Burgundy without the Cote d'Or markup. Straw gold in the glass, with honeyed white flowers on the nose and a palate that stays crisp rather than